Sunday 14 August 2011

Culture of NWFP Pakistan

 No oral lore or even written record of Alexander's passage through this country in the local languages is available. It is only through Arrian, a military historian who wrote the Anabasis, and other classical Greek and Latin sources that his passage through this country is documented. The Hellenic influence seems to have persisted and come into its own under the Graeco-Bacterian kings. Arrian the main authority was a contemporary of the Roman Emperors Hadrian, Antonius Pious and Marcus Aurelius and served as Counsel. He probably lived to 175 A.D. and was thus writing five hundred years after the event.

According to Wheeler it was not Greek but Roman influence that had "the most penetrating and enduring impact" upon "the Eastern world". A major source of Western influence on Gandhara sculpture has been traced to Roman Alexandria. Gandhara civilization and Mahayana school of Buddhism in turn served" as the source of much that is fun¬damental in the ecclesiastical art of Tibet, China and Farther Asia generally." The earliest cultural impact on the Province was, arguably, of Buddhism mixed with Kushan mores.Though Hinduism had been widespread prior to the rise of the more egalitarian Buddhism, the latter rapidly found acceptance among the people. Under Hinayana Buddhism, Buddha was a man of, not a, God. In Mahayana Buddhism, Buddha the wise human being became divine. This elevation found full creative expression during the reign of Kanishka .

Under Asoka and Kanishka numerous stupas and major monastery-complexes were built across the empire. When Kanishka converted to Buddhism and raised a commemorative tower at Shahji Ki Dherij "The King's Mound" outside the Ganj Gate of Peshawar, the royal stamp of approval. was given. Buddhism which has started as a doctrine based on ideas and symbolism began to manifest in the visual and the tactile. From the religion of the intellect it also evolved into a religion of the masses. Prompted by imperial patronage, the Golden Path of the Enlightened One found extensive expression in the chisel of the sculptors. He became the "focus of every composition." These images, perhaps more than the sacred Sutras, helped spread Buddhism among the common man who could more readily relate to these tangible objects than the rigours of ascetic life and philosophical discourse. From a symbolic icon he metamorphosed into an idol. From being venerated as a sage, he began to be worshipped in all his godly manifestations.

The Fasting Siddhartha, one of the greatest sculptures of the world, belongs to this period when the Greek chisel met and merged with South Asian spirit. Found in the Frontier, it was transported to the only museum at that time, the Lahore Central Museum where it now sits in splendid display.

When the Chinese pilgrim Fa-Hien visited Gandhara in 404 A.D, he found 500 monasteries. In the seventh century his counyrtyman Hiuen-Tsang lamented the decline. A hundred years later U-K'ong found only 300 monasteries.7 The more famous ruins of these centres of learning can still be seen at Charsadda, Naogram, Jamal Garhi, Kharaki, Takht-i Bahi, Sehri Bahlol or the Fort of Bahlol, the Lodhi ruler, Therali in the Peshawar district; at Adh-i Samudh near Kohat, the Akra mound in Bannu and Kafir Kot in Dera Ismail Khan. The most valuable of inscription relics are the Kharoshti rock-inscriptions at Shahbazgarhi in Peshawar district and at Mansehra. The ruins of the monastery at Takht-i Bahi show how developed the tangible and intangible culture was. There are meditation cells and communal living quarters integrated into the overall scheme, and constructed not to impose on, but blend with, the terrain looking out and down to the plains. A natural setting that engenders detachment and provides perspective on life and living.

The Peshawar Museum also has a fine collection of images related to the Buddha in stone, terracotta and plaster. These reliefs and free-standing works narrate the life story of Buddha from his birth and princely upbringing to his fruitless fasting and asceticism, meditation, ultimate enlightenment or nirvana and subsequent preach¬ing and death. These core subjects are supported and supplement by Buddhisatvas, the deities, monks and votaries. Some of the figures support turbans and headgears which in modified forms can still be spotted in the Frontier. The loose pants or shalwar, introduced by the Kushans and reflected in some Gandharan works, have now become a part of the national dress of Pakistan. The type of footwear and musical instruments, the jewellery and ornaments, the agriculture implements depicted in these works are in use to this day.

The dominant language of the Province, Pashto, belongs to the Irani branch of the Aryan family of languages. It has two main dialects: Pakhto and Pashto. Pakhto is the hard or north-eastern version spoken in Bajaur, Swat and Buner, by the Yusufzai, Bangash, Orakzai, Afridi and Momand tribes. Pashto is the soft or south-western version spoken by the Khattaks, Wazirs, Murwats and other tribes in the south.8The earliest Pashto works were composed in the Yusufzai dialect which is considered classical. It is the purest and the clearest form of the language.

Pashto Literature is illuminated by the works of Khushhal Khan Khattak (1613-89), a chief of the powerful Khattak tribe. This "renaissance" man was known not only for his prowess as a warrior but also for wielding the pen. He is reputed to have authored about 350 works of poetry and prose on subjects as wide-ranging as ethics, philosophy, religion, jurisprudence, medicine, sports and falconry.

Khushhal Khan's father had been confirmed by the Mughal Emperor Shah jahan as chief of the tribe as well as entrusted with the responsibility of protecting the Grand Trunk Road from Attock to Peshawar. Khushhal accompanied the impe¬rial armies on various expeditions, succeeded his father as chief of the tribe in 1640 and also served the Emperor Awrangzeb. Victim of court intrigue, he soon fell out of favour and was imprisoned in the Fort of Gwalior. During his incarceration he composed many poems. His poetry remains a high-point in Pashto literature and gives eternal expression to Pathan values and the intellectual collective. Sensitive to the impact of nature on body and soul, in many ways he has much in common with the English Romantic poets.

His patriotic poems, however, are inspired by two passions: his hatred and contempt for Emperor Awrangzeb and his own pride, which he calls the nang, the honour of the Pakhtun. He celebrates the fortitude and simple manliness of the Pathan and sees life as a clash of opposite. The tyranny he suffered at Awrangzeb's hands is attacked bitterly. Awrangzeb had deprived him of the ferry and highway tolls enjoyed by his forefathers since they were granted by Akbar to Akoray. He speaks at length about contemporary history and his own experiences in the great current of contempo¬rary affairs. Many of his sayings were collected by his grand¬son Afzal Khan in Tarikh-i Murassah / "jewel-studded History". In his works Khushhal refers admiringly of the emperors jahangir and Shah jahan. While he did not know jahangir, for the emperor died while Khushhal was still in his the teens, Shah Jahan he had served and knew personally. to He died a lonely man at seventy-eight at Dambara and was buried at the foothills of Cherat.

The other great luminary is.Abdur Rahman (1650-1715). Popularly known as Rahman Baba, he is renowned for his poetry and also venerated as a Sufi, though there is no evi¬dence he was ordained in any formal Sufi silsilah / "order". He was born in a village south of Peshawar called Bahadur Kalal. He later shifted to another village, Hazar Khawani, where he lived and died. Unlike his contemporary Khushhal Khan, he did not travel far and wide. He was influenced by the immortal Persian poets, Rumi, Hafiz and Sa'adi and pre¬ferred to compose on, and sing of, the inward. His verse is imbued with the spiritual and the longing for the Divine. His only extant work is a collection of poems, the Diwan-i Rahman.
With the coming of the British and the establishment of edu¬cational institutions along European lines, both the colonists and the colonized worked for the spread of Pashto language and literature. The rich oral tradition was accorded written form subject to the standards of western scholarship of the time. During this period the most comprehensive work on the language was undertaken by Henry George Raverty, a Lieutenant in the Bombay Army. Posted in the Frontier from 1849 to 1850, he wrote an account of the Peshawar district. He is also credited with introducing the tradition of compil¬ing the Gazetteers of the newly conquered territories. He published A Grammar of Pukhto, Pushto or Language of the Afghans (1855), A Dictionary of the Puk'hto, Pus'hto, or Language of the Afghans (1860), The Gulistan-Roh: Afghan Poetry and Prose (1860), Selections from the Poetry of the Afghans (1862), Gospels (1864), Fables of Aesop AI-Hakim in Pashto ( 1871 ) and The Pashto Manual (1904). The pioneer¬ing work of Raverty laid the academic foundations for others. With the spread of education, textbooks in Pashto were writ¬ten for the Munshi Fazil and Adeeb Fazil courses by Mir Ahmad Shah Rizwani, while Rev. T.B. Hughes' Ganj-i Pashto (1897) was used for lower classes. Later scholars not only produced practical manuals and linguistic works to facilitate the administrative machinery, but also explored history and undertook translations from, and into, Pashto. Maulvi Abdur Rahman Khan Muhammadzai was prompted to translate the Old Testament and John Bunyan's Pilgrims Progress into Pashto, thus adding to, and opening new areas of interest in, Pashto prose.
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Education played a pivotal role in the evolving culture. The two institutions which acted as catalysts were Edwardes College and Islamia College. They not only pro¬vided a common platform to all clans and tribes but were instrumental in project¬ing common Pathan identity and cultural underpinning. They shaped generations of Pathans who were to spearhead the struggle for freedom and take on the respon¬sibilities of the new nation and contribute to its cultural vibrancy. The Islamia College and the Collegiate School were founded in 1911 on the site where the bat¬tle between Akbar Khan and the Sikh General Hari Singh Nalwa had taken place. The impressive foundation-stone laying ceremony, held in March, was attended by elite of the Province. Tribal leaders in their traditional dresses and turbans, mixed with high-ranking civil officers, both British and Pakhtun, religious divines in their flowing robes, mingled with bemedalled and beribboned officers of the armed forces on the dusty flat near the mouth of the Khyber Pass. That historic day in spring marked the realization of a vision shared by two unusual individuals. One was Sir George Roos-Keppel, the Chief Commissioner of the NWFP who was fluent in Pashto. Of mixed Dutch-Swedish-English blood, he had an impressive adminis¬trative record and cut a dashing figure. The other, a distinguished son of the soil, was Nawab Sir Sahibzada Abdul Qaiyum Khan K.C.S.I.E., K.B. (1863-1939). He came from a religious family of the Topi village in the Swabi area. After his basic education he joined the Edwardes Collegiate Mission School, passed the vernacu¬lar and English examinations, and in 1887 joined the Commissioner's office as a translator and reader. From here his dedication to work and sound and timely advice to his British superiors led him from one honour to another. It was not long before his innate qualities placed him amongst the leading figures of the Frontier. Together with Sir George, he saw the necessity of an education in which tradition¬al disciplines and Western arts and sciences were imparted.

In 1908 or 1909 Sir George and Sir Sahibzada had visited the Muslim University at Aligarh. The Pathan students there had raised about sixty rupees as a token towards the establishment of a College in Peshawar. That token took root. Over the next few years Sahibzada Qaiyum worked tirelessly to realize the desire of those far¬sighted students. Donations were solicited and pledges cashed. Appeals were published in Pashto, Persian and Urdu. Then a site spread over 121 acres, three miles from the cantonment of Peshawar, was purchased. It was a great undertaking and one which was to spawn a full-fledged University in decades to come. The first Principal was Mr. L. Tipping. His wife ren¬dered a water-colour of the College building, as it stood in those early years in splendid isolation, as if challenging the Khyber mountains, with its meticulously executed details in man-made, kiln-baked bricks. The library of the Islamia College has a fine collection of rare manuscripts. It is now housed in the original College for the Ulema/ "religious scholars" and the Oriental Hostel, their boarding house. One of the College hostels, Grant Hostel is named after Sir Hamilton Grant, Chief Commissioner in 1919.
The Quaid-i Azam had declared: "…You will get your University sooner than you can imagine" on one of his visits to Peshawar. "This was a promise and a prophecy". Two years later the first Prime Minister of Pakistan Liaqat Ali Khan inaugurated the University of Peshawar on October 13,1950. Over the years this University has hosted students and scholars from many countries including China, Saudi Arabia, Iran, Iraq and Afghanistan.

The first Vice-Principal, and later first Muslim Principal, was Allama Hayatullah Mashriqi. A brilliant graduate of Cambridge University, England, he aquired four triposes (B.A's) with distinctions in five years in such diverse subjects as Mathematics, Natural Sciences, Mechanical Sciences and Oriental Languages (1907-1912). He was elected Fellow of the Royal Society of Art (F.R.S.A.) in 1923, Fellow of the Geographical Society of France (F.G.S.) and Fellow of the Society of Arts of France (F.S.A.). He was offered an ambassadorship in 1920 and a Knighthood in 1921 by the British Indian Government but being a man of simple living and high ideals he refused these and several subsequent offers of political and administrative import. Instead he founded a Muslim militia, the spade-weilding "Khaksars" during the freedom movement.

Among educationists who acquired a lasting reputation in the Frontier was Prof. LA. Thakurdas, a much-loved teacher of English literature, lawyer, poet, musician, singer, badminton champion and a fine cricketer. Born a Brahmin, he converted to Christianity in 1913. He started teaching in 1936 and continued to do so, at Edwardes College and later privately in Peshawar till 1980 when he died. His lectures became famous for continued disregard of the stipulated periods to the consternation of his colleagues and the amusement of his students. He is still remembered as an academic who could be seen riding a bicycle clutching Shakespeare. As a lawyer he graciously accepting bread or chicken from the poor as his legal fees. As a radio broadcaster during World War II he had the lover's temerity to dedicate a song to his beloved despite the highly conservative society.He cut an eccentric, amiable figure.
Another was the Englishman, H.M. Close. A Cambridge graduate, he was teaching at St. Stephan's College, Dehli when World War II commenced. In 1940 he got a regular commission in the army. During the Independance period he was. active in the rehablitation of refugees. He came to NWFP in 1947 and dedicated himself to the cause of education. He taught at the Islamia College for three long decades and then at Edwardes College from 1982 to 1996. Besides being an academic, he was a historian, author of several books, social worker and a Missionary. He died in Peshawar, widely mourned, in 1999. Dr. Phil Edmonds, another devoted teacher, was an Australian. His twenty-three years (1955-1978) at Edwardes College are remembered for his keen endeavour and personal interest in raising the academic standards of the institution and to produce well-rounded students.

With the importation of the printing press from the Punjab to Peshawar, the technology spawned an interest in current affairs and popular literature. Newspapers printed in Urdu and Pashto gave impetus to journalists. The first newspaper Murtazai a weekly was published in 1853 but ceased in 1858. Pioneers of journalism include Hakim Syed Abdullah Shah of Afghan, a newspaper current in 1909.Other early Pashto publications include the magazine Sarhad (1926) and Pakhtoon (1927).

The printing process involved the lithographic technique and created thriving work schools of calligraphers. Amongst the more famous Ustad / "Master" calligraphers was M. M. Sharif. He designed the currency notes of the State of Swat and also rendered newspaper mastheads and titles for Urdu and Pashto magazines. The mast head for the Daily Tarjuman-i Afghan is not only reflective of the Pathan' s love of arms but is a most innovative interpretation of the nasta'liq style.

Qazi Ahmad Jan is reputed to have introduced a "lucid style" and prompted'the "new genre of short story" in Pashto. Amir Hamza Khan Shinwari (b.1910) trained in the Bombay film industry, acted in, and directed, the .first Pashto film "Laila Majnu". Soon however, the spirit turned to other calling. He became a Sufi, wrote prose, plays and poetry and introduced new facets in the Pashto ghazal. Maulana Abdul Qadir laid the foundations of the Pashto Academy in Peshawar University. He was born in the backward area of Gadoon Amazai in the village of Pabinin of Swabi district. A graduate of Islamia College Peshawar, he joined the Aligarh University and obtained degrees in English, Arabic and Law. After World War II, he joined the All India Radio. Following the Independence of Pakistan, he served as a diplomat in the Pakistan Embassy in Kabul. A polyglot he spoke and wrote in five languages: Pashto, Urdu, English, Arabic and Persian.

Kalandar Mohmand is one of the leading intellectuals of the Frontier. He was born in the village of Bazikhel and worked as a journalist for many years acquiring a rep¬utation in several literary genres. His lasting contribution is the compilation of a comprehensive Pashto dictionary called Samander. Khatir Ghaznavi was a moving spirit behind the literary and cultural activities in the Province and is the author of several books of poetry and prose. He started his professional career from Radio Pakistan Peshawar, then joined the Urdu department of Peshawar University and also worked as a Director in the Pakistan Academy of Letters, Islamabad. He taught at the University of Malaysia and the Beijing University, China.

Mohsin Ahsan is another front-rank poet of Urdu and has published several vol¬umes of verse. Dr. Raj Wali Khattak who head the Pashto Academy is a poet and well-known critic. G.J. Pareshan Khattak (b. 1930), an accomplished scholar was the Vice-Chancellor of the Gomal University, Dera Ismail Khan, the Chairman of the Pakistan Academy of Letters, Islamabad, the Vice-Chancellor of Azad Jammu and Kashmir University, Muzaffarabad and Chairman of the University Grants Commission. He has published numerous books and received national and interna¬tional awards and honours.
Dr. Ahmad Hassan Dani (b. 1920) is the country's leading authority on paleologra¬phy and archaeology. A polyglot, he was the first Muslim student at the Benaras Hindu University and also the first Muslim student to receive a gold medal for top¬ping in the M.A. He later trained under the legendary archaelogist Sir Mortimer Wheeler in Taxila. In 1955 he obtained a Ph.D from the University of London. He has explored the region extensively, studied ancient cultures along the Karakoram Highway and has written prolifically on the proto-history in Gandhara, anthropolo¬gy, history and allied subjects. He established the Taxila Institute of Asian Civilizations and has long been associated with UNESCO. He is probably the most decorated scholar in the country whose work has been recognised by numerous countries through honours and awards.

Ahmad Faraz (b. 1931) ranks amongst the foremost Urdu poets of the post¬ Independence generation and has published thirteen volumes of poetry. Born in Kohat to a father who was himself a poet of Urdu and Persian, Faraz became known at a young age. He began his career as a lecturer in Urdu at Islamia College, Peshawar. Later he joined the Central Government's National Centres network, like many intellec¬tuals, to promote national cohesion, between the provinces especially East Pakistan, through the arts and culture. His anti-establishment poems landed him in jail but the Supreme Court came to his rescue. He was the Chairman of the Pakistan Academy of Letters. A most sought-after poet, he has won several national and international awards. His work has been translated into Chinese, Dutch, English, French, German, Hindi, Macedonian, Russian and Swedish. Amongst the poets who adopted English as their medium of expres¬sion, the most well-known is the late Daud Kamal, a profes¬sor of English at the Peshawar University. He published several volumes, translated the work of eminent Urdu poets into English and won international awards.

Western education and technology opened out new ways of expression. One important area of creative realization was western-style painting. Abdul Ghani Khan (1914-1996) was a man of many parts: poet, philosopher, painter, politician. Eldest son of Abdul Ghaffar Khan, he joined the Indian National Congress like his father and was active in the polit¬ical struggle against the British. Yet he is now remembered for his book Pathan, written in English and as a pioneering practitioner of the modern idiom in poetry and painting. He joined Rabindranath Tagore's Shantiniketan College of Arts in 1934, where he "discovered" himself both as a poet and a painter. The subjects of his five volumes of Pashto poetry range from "freedom, love of God, land and people, nation¬alism, fate, the mysteries of life and death, the joys of com¬munion, and the woes of separation." 16aln his paintings the influence of the Bengal School and pre-Islamic heritage of the Frontier make bold and contemporary .statements.

Amongst the most well-known and versatile artists of the country is Gulgee. Born in Peshawar in 1926 he has, over the decades, acquired an international reputation both as a painter and Calligraph-artist. He trained as an engineer but acquired fame as an artist during Ayub Khan's rule. He start¬ed with realistic work, acquired remarkable facility in drafts¬manship, executed some of the most memorable works in lapis lazuli mosaic including the portraits of the present Aga Khan and his grandfather Aga Khan III, rendered abstract murals in free gestural expressionism for many public and private collections. His contribution to the new international movement in the visual arts, Calligraph-art is phenomenal.
Other contemporary painters of standing include Tayyeba Aziz, a fine water-colourist who is also an academic. The paintings of Naveed Shabbir and Naheed Saleem figure in several military and public collections. Sabir Nazar who trained as a painter is known for his cartoons. Nasir ud-Din Mohmand, a senior artist, has for several decades painted the people and places of his Province.

Another new medium was the motion picture. The Frontier's contribution though often over-looked, is substantial. During the early twentieth century, a centre of film industry emerged in Bombay attracting talent in all branches of movie-making. Actors, with and without stage experience, gravitated to the dream-factory emulating Hollywood. The legendary Prithviraj Kapoor, the incomparable Dilip Kumar and the screen siren Madhubala all hailed from the Frontier. They went on to conquer the South Asian silver screen as no character actor, hero or heroine has done since.

Prithviraj Kapoor was born in Samundari, near Lyallpur now called Faisalabad, in Punjab. After schooling in Lyallpur and Lahore, he went to Peshawar where his father was a Police official. He graduated from Edwardes College, studied Law for a year before the celluloid lured him to Bombay in 1928. An interesting anecdote is told of his racial tenacity. Baburao Patel, editor of the top cinema magazine of the 1930's, Film India remarked to him: 'There is no place in the films for uncouth brawny Pathans who think they can make it as actors!" To this the young Prithviraj replied: "Baburao do not provoke this Pathan. If there is no place for me in the Indian films, I shall swim across the seven seas to Hollywood!" But there was no need to undertake such a tiring swim. He not only became a successful actor and producer but spawned the Kapoor dynasty that for five generations is involved with cinema.

The other male actor who dominated Bollywood like a colos¬sus was Dilip Kumar. Born in Peshawar in 1922 as Yusuf Khan, he ruled the South Asian silver screen from the late t 940's till well into the t 980's. Unmatched in the clarity of dialogue delivery, master of various rustic dialects, chaste Urdu of Lucknow and Dehli, and the vast repertoire of expressions, he came to be celebrated as 'The Monarch of Tragedy". From lead romantic roles - tragic or swashbuck¬ling, rustic or comic - to character parts, his repertoire and charismatic presence remains unparalleled. He is the Olivier of Bollywood.

Widely acknowledged as "the most beautiful actress of her generation", Madhubala hailed from Mardan. In the epic romance "Mughal-e-Azam" these three Pathans, the great¬est actors of their time, were immortalized in leading roles: Prithjviraj as Emperor Akbar the Great, Dilip Kumar as the rebellious son, Prince Saleem later to inherit the empire as Emperor Jahangir, and Madhubala as the tragic Anar-kali / "Pomegranate-blossom", the dancing-girl who dared to love the Prince. Even the current Bollywood icon Shahrukh Khan (b. t 965), lOVingly called "King Khan", has his ancestral house in Peshawar.

In the years after Independence, Radio Pakistan Peshawar and theatres played vital roles in training performers and actors. Some of the early luminaries include Khalil Khan, F.R.Qureshi, Kazim AIi, Sheikh Shareef and Ms. Santosh Russell, a Christian lady popularly known as Santoshi. Qavi Khan began his professional career in 1952 from Radio Pakistan, Peshawar, where he learnt his craft from some of them. When television came to Pakistan in 1964 he was the lead in the first television play "Nazarana". Since then he has continued to perform on radio, stage, film and television in ' tragic and comic roles with equal facility, and win numerous national awards. His younger contemporary Firdous Jamal (b. 1954) also began as a radio artiste in Peshawar. His first television play was from the Rawalpindi Station. Since then he has performed in all the languages of Pakistan on radio, stage, film and television and received awards like his senior colleague. Rangeela, the versatile comedian of the Pakistani silver screen, who delighted audience for over three decades, was also a Pathan.

Singers such as Muzaffar Khan, the late Gulnaar Begum, Khiyal Muhammad and Zarsanga have acquired a lasting fol¬lowing and reputation in the Province. Their senior contem¬poraries who contributed to Pashto music and singing included Ustad Abdullah Jan, Ahmed Gul, Ahmed Khan, Qamro Jan, Baacha Zareen Jan. Rafiq Shinwari pioneered the fusion of folk singing with ghazal rendering and so created a new style. The musician Muneer Sarhadi is a master of the Saranda, an indigenous stringed instrument played with a bow. On the current pop-culture scene, Rahim Shah has emerged as a major vocalist. His songs have been plagia¬rized by Bollywood movies.

Predictably traditional sports such as hawking, hunting with dogs and shooting hare and partridge have waned. The tra¬ditional sports such as ram-fighting, wrestling, cock-fighting are only occasionally seen. However, horse riding, polo and shooting remain popular as ever. Polo in its traditional form still draws large crowds when it is played annually at the Shandoor festival in mid-summer.
This widely attended festival takes place at the highest polo ground in the world. Nine hours by winding road from Chitral, in the Shandoor Pass at about 11 ,000ft, the six best teams, three from Chitral and three from Gilgit continue the tradition which was formalized in the 1920's. The game is played following the centuries old rules set by a descendant of Chengiz Khan. Unlike his blood-thirsty ancestor who played the game with the heads of vanquished enemies, Ali Sher Khan tamed the game to set rules. It consists of two chukkars, in which each player is allowed only one pony and if one player ceases to play, so would the player from the opposing team. Smaller than the standard polo-field, the shandoor ground is 60 yards by 220 yards

Contribution of a different kind came from the village of Naway Kallay, now subsumed in the growing Peshawar cantonment. It has acquired international fame for producing a string of world champions in squash. The first generation of champions such as Roshan Khan (1927-2006) and Hashim Khan groomed the next generation of champions: Azam Khan, Mohibullah Khan, Qamar Zaman, Jahangir Khan and Jan Sher Khan. These world-class players, for many decades dominated the intense sport. Roshan Khan won the British Open, Dunlop Open, Canadian Open and Egyptian Open in one big sweep in 1956. The following year he won the Pakistan Professional Championship and the Australian World Series. In 1958 and 1960 he won the US Open and in 1962 the Canadian Open. He rounded up his carreer by winning the Pakistan Professional Championship for the last time in 1967. His son Jahangir Khan, was the youngest ever winner of the International Squash Raquet Federation World Amateur Championship in Australia. In 1981 he defeated the great Australian Geoff Hunt in the World Open in Toronto and lifted the British Open trophy in 1982 in a historic win. He remains a record-holder with ten successive wins at the British Open and six wins at the World Open Championships.

Qamar Zaman having won the Pakistan Open in 1973 went on playing the international circuit till 1989, winning numer¬ous championships including the World Open Championship in 1975 and the World Masters' Open Championship in 1997 and 1978. During 1975, 1978 and 1980 he was number one in the world ranking. These men not only put Pakistan on the map of the squash world, but helped strengthen and spread the game in the country.

For skiers and mountaineers, the Province is a challenge. The only ski resort of the country is at Malam Jabba, Swat but many peaks continue to beckon the more adventurous climbers. Every year the daring come from all over the world to test their stamina, strategy and tenacity against the slopes and summits. In the summer of 1939 there was an unsuc¬cessful attempt to climb Trich Mir. On the expedition's departure, two of the Sherpa porters, Everest "tigers" named Anten Sing and Tensing, remained with the Chitral Scouts for four years, though for different reasons. They were to carry out reconnaissance of all possible invasion routes from Russian Turkestan, through the Wakhan. Tensing who was to attain fame as one of the first two men to reach the summit of Everest in 1953 was a very good coole "His souffles con¬cocted at 12,000 feet on a bleak mountainside were out of this world, and his coffee- and chocolate-gateaux scrump¬tious”.

Bill White, the leader of the expedition, the Sherpas and selected Scouts were sent to reconnoitre fourteen passes over the Hindu Kush, of which only two had been visited by Europeans in the previous forty years. They varied in height from Bang Gol (15,600 ft.) to Kot Gaz (17,939 ft.). For this exploit Bill White was awarded the medal of the Royal Geographical Society.

For the Frontier's material culture the Kissa Khwani Bazaar in Peshawar provides a collective view. A broad artery, criss¬crossed by narrow lanes and bye-lanes, it is an important economic and cultural nucleus of the Province. Here are found vessels in beaten brass and copper, fine hand-woven woollen fabrics, leather-work, hand-knotted rugs, namdas of beaten wool, and carpets, caps made of mountain-sheep wool and lamb-skin, the karakuli, finest quality woven fabrics with richly worked end-pieces in bands of gold / tilla for lungis/ turbans, Chitrali cloaks of handspun and hand-woven wool, and leather chappals in a range of traditional styles besides a hundred other products, all vying for space and attention. Not only native designs and forms but influence of Greek and Arab, Kashmiri and Persian, Central Asian and Tartar, European and Far Eastern motifs are visible. All testi¬fying to Peshawar's reputation as the place where cultures meet.

The cottage industry consists mainly of fine embroideries of phulkari variety from Hazara, chikan doz from Peshawar, wood-carving with characteristic motifs of each region espe¬cially from Swat and Kafiristan, marble inlay, glazed earthen¬ware or faience from Bannu, lacquer-turnery from Dera Ismail Khan and lacquer-ware of Bannu, metal-work and leather.

The Frontier has also spawned the true Pakistani" Pop Art". Peshawar is the centre of the highly popular 'Truck-art". The painters with bright enamel colours cover almost every con¬ceivable surface of the heavy vehicles, decorating each like a bride. Bold and naive renderings of local fauna and flora, cal¬Iigraphed verses, traditional or folk motifs, portraits of male and female film stars and political leaders are rendered with such unrestained abandon that the result is the most eye¬catching art galleries on the road. This has led to exhibitions in museums at home and abroad.

The Frontier is seismically an active area and the people over the ages have evolved their indigenous architectural styles which are earthquake resistant. The traditional architecture of mud bricks reinforced with timber beams and supports seen in many of Burke's nineteenth century photographs can still be seen in Peshawar's old city. Some structures are several storeys high. Up-country the Kalash, the herdsmen and the peasants generally employ the traditional construction methods which rely heavily on the use of logs, shaped tim¬ber and rocks held in place by adobe and plastered with mud and straw.
The Pathan celebrates social and political occasions with verve and vigour. Firing guns into the air is a common expression of joy. Another is the Khattak sword-dance. This most popular and representative dance involves loud music of drums and pipes and flashing of blades while young men in full white shirts swirl and toss their hair back and forward or flick them from side to side in wild abandon. The cultural facets of the Frontier are many, and many remain unexplored. http://funaziz.blogspot.com/






culture of balochistan pakistan

 PEOPLE
A number of tribes constitute to make people of Balochistan. Three major tribes are Baloch, Pashtoon and Brahvi. The Balochi speaking tribes include Rind, Lashar, Marri, Jamot, Ahmedzai, Bugti Domki, Magsi, Khosa, Rakhashani, Dashti, Umrani, Nosherwani, Gichki, Buledi, Sanjarani and Khidai. Each tribe is further sub-divided into various branches. The tribal chief is called Sardar while head of sub-tribe is known as Malik, Takari or Mir. Sardars and Maliks are members of district and other local Jirgas according to their status. The Baloch, believed to have originally come from Arabia or Asia minor, can be divided in to two branches: the Sulemani and Mekrani as distinct from the Brahvis who mostly concentrate in central Balochistan. Among the eighteen major Baloch tribes, Bugtis and Marris are the principal ones who are settled in the buttresses of the Sulemania. The Talpur of Sind aIso claim their Baloch origin.
Brahvi speaking tribe include Raisani, Shahwani, Sumulani, Bangulzai, Mohammad Shahi, Lehri, Bezenjo, Mohammad Hasni, Zarakzai (Zehri) , Mengal and Lango, most of these tribes are bi-lingual and are quite fluent both in the Balochi and Brahvi Languages. The Pashtoon tribes include Kakar, Ghilzai Tareen, Mandokhel , Sherani, Luni, Kasi and Achakzai, pitafi Baloch Tribes.
LANGUAGES
Balochistan, despite its scarce population, has an uncommon racial and tribal diversity. Most of the people in the cities and towns understand and speak more than two languages. In adddition to Balochi, Pashtoo and Brahvi, the majority of the population understand and speak Urdu, the national language. In Kachhi and Sibi districts, people speak Seraiki and Sindhi. Quetta city, the confluence point of all linguistic groups accommodates not only Urdu, Balochi, Pashtoo, Brahvi and Sindhi speaking people but Punjabi, Darri and Persian speaking ones as well. Dehwar tribe of Sarawan sub-division in Kalat, also speaks a language derived from Persian. Saraiki is also used in some Balochi Tribes.
CULTURE
Cultural landscape of Balochistan portrays various ethnic groups. Though people speak different languages, there is a similarity in their literature, beliefs, moral order and customs. The cementing factor is religion which provides a base for unity and common social order.
Brahvi, Balochi and Pashtoon tribes are known for their hospitality. Guest is accorded is held in high esteem and considered a blessing from God. Better off people even slaughter sheep or goat for their guest. Sometimes, it so happens that where there are more houses, the guest is assumed to be the guest of the whole village. This open heartedness is the loving feature of the tribal people and is not as deep in the city or town dwellers.
>Another adorable feature of Balochistan culture is faithfulness and sincerity in all relationships. There is no place or respect for unfaithful people in prevalent moral order. If fidelity is reciprocated with disloyalty or betrayal it is never forgotten.
MARRIAGES
Marriages are solemnized in presence of Mullah (a religious teacher) and witnesses. Life partners are commonly selected within the family (constituting all close relatives) or tribe. Except a negligible fraction of love marriages, all marriages are arranged. Divorce rate is very low.
 
A lot of marriage rituals are celebrated in different tribes. In some tribes, the takings of “Valver”, a sum of money paid by the groom to his to be wife’s family, also exist. But this custom is now gradually dying out since it has given rise to many social problems. The birth of a male child is taken as a source of p ride since he is though t to be the defender of this family and tribe.
DRESS
The mode of dress among the Balochi, Pashtoon and Brahvi tribes is very similar having a few minor dissimilarities. Turban is the common headwear of the men. Wide loose shalwar (a bit similar to loose trouser) and knee-long shirts are worn by all. The dress of the woman consists of the typical shirt having a big pocket in front. The shirt normally has embroidery work with embedded small round mirror pieces. Big ‘Dopatta’ or ‘Chaddar’, a long rectangular piece of cloth cascading down the shoulders and used to cover head, are used by the women.
FESTIVALS
There are religious and social festivals celebrated by the people of Balochistan. Two major religious festivals are Eid-ul-Azha and Eid-ul-Fiter. On these festivals people adorn their houses, wear new dresses, cook special dishes and visit each other. Eid-Meladun-Nabi is another religious festival. It is a celebration of the Holy Prophet’s birthday. Numerous colorful social festivals are also source of jubilation. Sibi festival that traces its roots to Mehergar, an archeological site of ancient human civilization, attracts people from across the country. It is attended by common folks, ministers and other government officials. Folk music performance, cultural dances, handicrafts stalls, cattle shows and a number of other amusing activities present a perfect riot of color. Buzkashi is a peculiar festival showing valour of Balochistan people. It is celebrated on horse-back by two teams that use their skills to snatch a goat from the each other. http://funaziz.blogspot.com/




Culture of Sindh Pakistan


 SlNDHI SOCIETY is an integral part of the great Indian society. And Sindhi culture is an integral part of the great Indian culture. And yet, because of local factors, it has a flavour of its own. The people are eclectic: not very profound, but very practical. As a wit put it: ``The Sindhi rule of the thumb is to do whatever is convenient and profitable.'' Their varied experience over the ages has given them a certain flexibility that makes for survival, even if not for glory. Added to the profundities of their ancestral faith, they have faced waves of foreigners and they themselves have travelled far and wide for trade. This has made them easy citizens of the world. All fanaticism becomes foreign to their nature. As H.T. Lambrick, ICS, has observed: ``There is something in the air of Sindh which blurs the frontiers of ordinarily opposed creeds.''

When Islam came to India, it had staged the usual scene of murder, loot and rape. However, before long, the mischief had been contained. The new Muslims adorned their graves with the old lingas and yonis and offered them incense and flowers. ``The day of wedlock,'' they said, ``is more important than a thousand years of roza and namaz.'' They dispensed with the Arab practice of female circumcision. They even moderated the harsh Muslim law. For example, they decided that saying 'Talaq, Talaq'' twice together would be counted as one and not two. Even the Arabs visiting Sindh --- which is about all the Hind that they knew --- were so Sindhized that, on return home, they were told: ``O returner from Hind, renew thy faith.'' The Sammas and the Soomras, who were native chiefs, ruled for 500 years. Even when converted, they remained more Sindhi than Muslim. No wonder Capt. Hamilton, who visited Sindh in the eighteenth century, recorded that until a century earlier, the Hindu population had been ten times the Muslim population. Today Sindhi intellectuals like G.M. Syed reject the ``Arab Chhaap Islam''; they would obviously like to have the ``Sindhi-Chhaap Islam'' that very much prevailed until the late Mughal times.

Ironically enough, this pro-Hindu situation changed during the Mughal period. Akbar initiated the policy of religious toleration. He gave more and more top jobs to the Hindus. This antagonized many Muslims, who now lost their monopoly of top jobs. Those who thus got left out, joined hands with the fanatical mullahs. It was this unholy alliance that helped Aurangzeb prevail over Dara. And so even while Akbar's policy brought the Hindus into their own, the Muslim reaction to that policy strengthened the forces of fanaticism and launched a wave of mass conversions It was obviously this tidal wave that overwhelmed Sindh and converted it into a Muslim-majority province full thousand years after the Arab invasion. Al-Ghazali, the fanatic, who had attacked the liberal al-Farabi and Ibn Sina in the eleventh century, and who had abjured reason and divorced religion from science, now prevailed in the Muslim courts with a vengeance.

The exponent of this new policy in Sindh was Mohammed Hashim Thattwi. His fatwa was duly issued as a firman of the Kalhora ruler Ghulam Shah. It read: ``Let all functionaries of the state note that they have to make all efforts to implement the religious directives issued from time to time by Janab Makhdoom Mohammed Hashim. They should forbid the (Shia practice of) mourning and Tazias during Moharram. Women should he stopped from visiting gardens and graveyards. People should be prevented from mourning for the dead. Animals should not be painted. Hindus should be forbidden from wearing 'choti' or `dhoti', or sitting in their shops with bare knees. Muslims should be told not to keep.moustache --- and not to grow their beard long. The beard should not exceed the size of a fist. Hindus should not be allowed to play Holi or sing with sarod, shehnai, drum or bugle. Hindus should also be stopped from bowing to the idols or to the river. Government staff must enforce the above orders strictly. Violation of any of these orders must be visited with deterrent punishment so that nobody dares indulge in these practices. In addition, people should be told to observe roza, namaz and other religious practices. Let there be no failure in the implementation of the above rules. Shaban 2, 1072 H.''

The liberal religious policy of Abar, followed by fanaticism like this, led to the Hindus getting more jobs; but it also led to more and more Hindus at lower levels getting converted under official pressure. And thus one could see the two opposing developments at the same time. Gidumal and many other Amils became ministers in the court of Sindh. They were allowed to dress like Muslim aristocracy, charged no taxes, and addressed as ``Dewan''. But Hindus could neither keep an idol nor ring a bell, in what passed for their ``mandirs''. From Thursday evening till Saturday morning, they kept indoors --- for fear of some Muslim saying they had heard them say ``Allah'' or''Mohammed'' on the holy day of Friday and that, therefore, they were now deemed Muslims. The Hindus would not touch any Arabic book --- for fear it might turn out to be the Koran, whose touch would make them Muslim in the eyes of fanatics. British visitors such as Richard Burton noted that the Hindus would never use the word rasso or rassi, for rope --- for fear somebody might say that they had uttered the word ``rasul'' (prophet); they would always call it ``nori''. A Sindhi prince gave his watch to an Englishman for repair in Bombay, with instruction that it should not be touched by any idol-worshipper. This Englishman was presented with a sword with the Persian inscription: ``I am light of weight, but l am heavy on the enemy. Warriors have used me to slaughter one lakh Hindus.'' Even a veteran statesman like Gidumal, who had served the state with distinction, like a Cardinal Wolsey, was murdered in the open court when his daughter Draupadi ended her life rather than agree to marry a Muslim prince.

British observers, therefore, wondered why the Hindus stayed on in a place like that. Dr. James Burton wrote: ``It is really difficult to conceive how many Hindus should have continued to reside in the country; and the fact can only be accounted for by that attachment which man shares with the vegetable, to 'the soil in which he is reared.''

That was one side of the picture. Another side was what E. B. Eastwick noted: ``When we arrived in Shikarpur and Hyderabad we found Hindu merchants as wealthy, almost as numerous, as in the most prosperous towns under our own government.'' He added: ``As we entered Karachi, we met pilgrims returning from Hinglaj...lt is the farthest western limit to which Indian polytheism extends.''

Hamilton reported in 1699 the celebration of Holi in Sindh from morning till evening. ``In this mad feast people of all ages and sexes dance through the streets to pipes, drums and cymbals.''

Eastwick even saw a remarkable sight of Diwali, on 5 November 1839, four years before the British conquest of Sindh. He noted: ``The Diwali happening to fall on this day, the whole river was bright with lamps. The scene was really enchanting. The mosques and ruined tombs, illumined by myriads of lights, and the broad current sweeping by them in all sombre majesty --- the palm-groves and the island fortress of Bakhar in mid-stream, made up a wondrous picture. Ever and anon some votary would offer up his prayers to Lakshmi and launch a tiny craft bearing a cluster of lamps into the water.''

Here were Sindhi Muslims celebrating Diwali along with the Hindus. Obviously the Sindhis had evolved a Sindhi version of Islam. A certain good humoured co-existence prevailed. When Mir Sarfaraz Khan made fun of Gidumal's short stature, the latter retorted in Persian: ``Manhood is tested in war; the thumb, though small, is more important than the fingers.''

Once the poet-saint Shah Abdul Latif teased his Hindu friend Madan with the question: ``How will you Kafirs fare on the day of judgement?'' (``Hashar vela hissab mein, kafir kanda keina?'') Madan did not reply at the time. Later, when they reached a ferry point, the boat had just started off. Madan took out extra money and showed it to the boatman, who stopped to pick them up. Madan now turned to Shah and answered his earlier query thus: ``Those who have an open hand will cross over ahead of all others.'' (``Hath jineen jo heean, se pahrein pattan paar pya.'')

Most of the Sindhi Hindus had always been there. When Mohammed Bin Qasim sacked Aror, the capital of Sindh, many of them migrated north to the Punjab. They are still known as Aroras. For the rest, the Hindus shifted to Multan, Jaisalmir, and Kutch for safety --- and many of them came back when conditions improved. A good number of them returned during Mughal-Kalhora period. And so we have Miss Vimla Sindhi, a Punjabi lady, who assists Mrs. Indira Gandhi. And we had a Sindhi ICS man called K. L. Punjabi. The Advanis came from Multan, the Malkanis, Thadhanis and Ramchandanis from Jaisalmir; the Kripalanis from far-away Prayag, and the Bhagchandanis all the way from Ayodhya. They are all known -after their great ancestor, a dozen generations earlier. The only exception are the Shahanis, who are so called after Shah Baharo, a chieftain of Larkana. He was so popular that his relations, friends and even employees called themselves ``Shahani''. The Bhag-naris were late arrivals in Shikarpur from Baluchistan. Contrary to popular impression, the Amils and the Bhaibunds come from the same group of families. Those who took to service became known as Amils (for `amal', to execute) and those who took to business became Bhai-bandhus (Bhaibunds).

A sociological study by Bherumal Mehrchand shows that the Mukhis, the Nagranis, the Sagranis, the Jethmalanis, the Lakhanis, the Lullas, the Mattas, and the Chabrias are cousins. So, too, are the Advanis, the Sitlanis, the Sadhwanis and the Shamdasanis. The Chandiramanis, the Bhambhanis, the Karnanis and the Kripalanis are all ``Chugh''. The Thadhanis, the Raisinghanis, and the Gehanis are all ``Khangar''. The Chainanis, the Hingoranis, and the Jhangianis are ``Pahuja'' . The Keswanis, the Ambwanis, the Mulchandanis, and the Bhagwananis are ``Kukreja''. The Ajwanis, the Bhavnanis, the Gidwanis, and the Jagtianis are kin. And so are the Mirchandanis, the Mahtanis, the Moorjanis, the Sadaranganis and the Makhijas. The Balwanis, the Malkanis, the Ramchandanis, and the Ramrakhianis are all ``Darari''.

The Sindhi Muslim society is more varied than the Hindu society. The ancient mass is Koli and Santhal. And so we still have some Munda words in Sindh. For the same reason many Sindhis still have the vigesimal system of counting by twenties. When a Sindhi boy plays gilli-danda, he does not count ``hik-ba- tay'', Sindhi for ``one-two-three''; he counts by the South Indian numerals --- ``vikat, laine, moon, naar `!

Then came the Jats and the Medes. Later still, the Arabs, the Turks, and the Afghans. Today the Syeds are the religious leaders. The Sheikhs are upper-caste converts. The Sammats represent the Samma and Soomra Rajputs. There are more Baluchis in Sindh than in all Baluchistan --- just as there are more Gurkhas in India than in Nepal. And then there are the commoners --- Maru and Sanghar, Panhwar, Malah, Mangta, Sodha, Dhati, Gandra, Rebra, Kaachi, Kohyara, Muhana, Oda, Makrani, Shidi (Abyssinian). We even have the ``Lunds'' in Matli --- a very funny tribe --- who are believed to be third-century Hun settlers. All of them are conscious of their caste. When Richard Burton asked an ``Ashraf'' who were the other high castes, he was told: ``We are one; Syeds are another; half of Fateh Ali's family: the rest are all riff-raff''!

A significant factor in Hindu survival in Sindh during the Muslim period, in reasonably good shape, was the rise of Sikhism in the Punjab. Sanatan Dharma having gone moribund under prolonged Muslim rule, Sikhism came as a fresh breeze in the stale Sindhi atmosphere. The fact that the two provinces were neighbours, their people, kin and their languages allied, made Sikhism tick very well in Sindh. lt is believed that Guru Nanak Dev had visited Shikarpur in his wide-ranging travels. One Kanayalal of Sindh joined Guru Govind Singh, who made it his duty to serve water to the wounded on the battle-field. Kanayalal gave water not only to the Hindu wounded but also to thc Muslim wounded. Some Sikhs thought it wrong to revive enemy soldiers. They took Kanayalal to the Guru, who appre- ciated his action and asked him to go and preach Sikh Dharma in Sindh. He came to be known as ``Khat Waro Bao'' (Khaat wala Bawa) because he gave his sermon while sitting on a cot.

When Bhai Dayal Singh grew old in the service of the Guru's army, he was given a sword, a kirpan, a chakra, and a spear to go and infuse some courage in the Sindhis.

Maharaja Ranjit Singh sent one Manik Singh with a copy of Guru Granth Saheb on elephant-back to be installed in Hyderabad. The Mirs gave land for the purpose and the well-known Akal Bhoonga was built there. When the Gurdwara used drums and bugles, the Muslims were scandalised. They objected to music before a mosque, which stood next door. At first the Mirs asked the Akal Bhoonga to shift from there. But realizing that it might displease the mighty Lahore Durbar, they let it remain --- and, instead, converted the old mosque into one ``for women only''. Of course no woman ever went to offer namaz there. It remained locked.

Guru Nanak's two sons Baba Lakhmichand and Baba Srichand, gave rise to the Jagiasu and Udasi schools of preachers. They also established many temples. Chief of them was Bawa Gurpat Saheb, the twelfth-generation descendant of Guru Nanak. He played a notable role in Sindhi society. No wonder the Sindhis are very familiar with Sikh scriptures. Today even important Sindhi Muslim leaders such as G.M. Syed feel that the teachings of Guru Nanak would be good for all Sindhis and Punjabis.

British rule ended the preferential treatment of Muslims under Muslim rule, and held the scales of justice even between the Hindus and the Muslims. Given equal opportunities, the Hindus forged far ahead of the Muslims, because of their traditional interest in education and business. Soon they dominated the services, the professions, trade and industry. The Muslim was confined to land and crafts. So much so that when partition took place and refugees arrived in Sindh, they wondered how Pakistan could be established in Sindh. They said: ``There are more Muslims in Lucknow and Patna than in Hyderabad and Karachi in Sindh.''

The Sindhis had always traded with foreign lands. Their slogan was: ``Service is lowly; agriculture is noble; but trade alone is profitable.'' Thousands of years ago they had traded with, and even settled down in, eastern Mediterranean, as Phoenicians. Shah Latif has a whole lovely ``Sur Samundi'' on the annual trading expeditions to Lanka, Java and China. The opening of the Suez Canal in 1869 gave a tremendous impetus to this trade. Beginning with Sindhi arts and crafts --- hence the name ``Sindh- worki'' for them --- they soon ranged all the way from textiles to curios to diamonds.

When the British took over, the Hindus did not hold any land. The British gave land to the retiring officers, most of them Hindu. The wealthy began to buy lands at market price. The improvident Muslim landlords began to mortgage lands to the Hindu money-lenders, who gradually acquired the same on default. In one century of British rule, the Hindus had come to, acquire about 40 per cent of the land. Another 20 per cent was believed to have been mortgaged to them. Some Muslim League leaders --- particularly Sir Abdullah Haroon --- made this into a big issue. Here was a gentleman who started life as a cycle-repair assistant on four annas a day, and ended up as a crore-pati, who grudged 30 per cent of the population .(Hindus) owning 40 per cent of the land! He could never see the initial iniquity of the Hindus (30 per cent of the population) holding zero land under the Muslim rule. However, many other Muslim leaders noted that the peasants were happier with the Hindu zamindars than with the Muslim zamindars. They also noted that many Muslim zamindars did not want education to spread --- for fear the next generation of educated tenants might ask for more rights.

The real reasons for this shift of land-ownership were two: the Hindus who had been starved of land for centuries, felt the natural human urge for land --- and now they went in for it. Secondly, the impecunious Muslim habits stood in sharp contrast with Hindu prudence. A Muslim tended to spend beyond his means; a Hindu tended to save and invest. A popular saying was that when a Hindu had money, he would buy or build more and more houses (Jaye Mathan Jaye); when a Muslim had money, he would marry more and more wives ( Joye Mathan Joye).

And Muslim backwardness in the field of business is traditional. Both the Mughlas and the British recognized the Hindu superiority in trade. As the ``Mirza Namah'' of Aziz Ahmed advis- ed the Muslim aristocracy in the sixteenth century: ``If he needs to borrow money, he should borrow it from a Hindu Mahajan, whom he should prefer to a Muslim Mughal merchant, e-en though the latter lends money free of interest. He should totally avoid purchasing from the shop of a Mughal, as it means paying four times the cost of the thing purchased and suffering great loss, and in the end it means listening to fourfold harangues of these merchants in the market-place. On the other hand, a Hindu is content even if he reduces the interest, considers the little he gets as plenty and is thankful for it.''

Robert Clive had the same experience. He wrote: ``These fat expensive Moormen (Muslims) spend Government's revenue in luxury and assuagements. Indeed in my opinion none but Gentoos (Gentiles, that is Hindus) ought to be renters of counters who always spend less than their income and can, when called upon, make good any deficiency in the revenues.''

Some leaders did try to mend the Muslim matters. G.M. Syed told them not to overspend on wedding ceremonies. He advised them to reduce the size of salwar and patko (turban) from 20 yards to 3-4 yards. He even begged of them not to bathe just once a year. As president of the Sindh Provincial Muslim League he conducted a regular campaign for the Muslims to take to trade. But all this takes a long time. As Maulana Abul Kalam Azad put it, ``lt takes a whole generation even to learn how to wear a shoe properly.''

Pir Husamuddin Rashdi ridiculed the extremes of puritanism and profligacy in Muslim society. On the one hand they observed such strict purdah that even a pregnant woman was not allowed into the zenana --- for fear she might be carrying a male child, who might cast a glance on the secluded beauties. On the other hand, one could see any number of them twirl their moustache with one hand and feel their private parts with the other hand, on seeing a winsome lady.

The major responsibility for the backwardness of Muslim society lay with the mullahs. Too many of them were as ignorant as they were fanatical. Knowing nothing about religion, they often divided over non-issues. One would pronounce the hooka un-Islamic, another would declare snuff Islamic. They would argue endlessly whether red or black would be Islamic for dyeing a greying beard. Others would discuss whether hands should be folded or separated at namaz time --- and if folded, should they be held above the navel or,below it. Professor Hotchand Gurbuxani had edited an excellent edition of Shah's works. To this day it is recognized as a classic. But Maulana Nizamani rejected it --- on the ground that no Hindu (polytheist) could possibly enter the spirit of a monotheistic Muslim poet!

It was this stupidity and ignorance of many mullahs that roused Shah and Sachal, the two greatest poets of Sindh, to denounce them in no uncertain terms. Said Shah: ``Don't call the mullahs: they are stooges. They would barter pearls for a pot of flesh. . . With open eyes they would dive in a sea of sand.'' (Sujani Allah, tubbi dinaoon dhoor mein.)

Sachal had only one solution for the unreasonable mullahs. ``Beat the mullah on his head'' (``Kutt mian ji thorh''). G.M. Syed now has suggested a legal ban on mullahs issuing fatwas, doing communal propaganda, or taking part in politics.

The progress of the Hindus during the British rule was dramatic. To begin with, the upper castes of Brahmins, Banias and Kayasthas had remained Hindu, only landlords, peasants, artisans, soldiers had become Muslim. So the earlier caste differentiation was now compounded by creedal differentiation. With modernization, the caste-community difference was reinforced by class differentiation. The fact that the ``higher'' caste-class Hindu was also urban, only further heightened the difference --- and widened the gulf. This irked many Muslims. Leaving aside the mullahs, who were congenitally anti-Hindu, even Khuhro once said: ``Today Muslim women are washing. dishes in Hindu homes. I look for the day when Hindu women will be washing dishes in Muslim homes.'' But G.M. Syed, after his experience in the Muslim League --- which made him sadder but wiser said: ``Why blame the Hindus for Muslim backwardness? Every morning when the Hindu child takes his bath and goes to school, the unwashed Muslim child is seen playing marbles in the dirty by-lane.'' Syed once even suggested that all government jobs should be given only to the Amils; he found them so good.

While Premier Allah Bux was positively nationalist, even Premier Sir Ghulam Hussian Hidayatullah was non-communal. He was the son of Duhlanomal of Shikarpur, who had married Hur Bibi, a Pathan girl. The two wanted to live in peace, but the shortsighted Hindu society would not let them. They, therefore, shifted to the holy peace of Hardwar. After some time, however, the pull of the home-town brought them back to Shikarpur, But once again the Hindu society would not let them live in peace. Duhlanomal, therefore, became Muslim --- to escape the Hindu taunts.

Although Sir Shah Nawaz Bhutto made himself infamous as Dewan of Junagadh in 1947, when that state acceded to Pakistan, he had never been communal in Sindh. Indeed the communalists thought him so much pro-Hindu that they used to say he must have been fathered by a Hindu. While this statement seems malicious, Sir Bhutto's wife, who bore him ``Zulfy'', was certainly Hindu. She was Lakhan Bai before she became Khurshid. Poet Sheikh Ayaz's mother was Dadan Bai, a Hindu lady of Shikarpur.

Hindus and Muslims, Shias and Sunnis, lived in peace. Outside of the Sukkur district, communal violence was almost unknown. The Sindhi Muslims heard the fighting slogan ``Nara-i- Taqdir', `Allah-o-Akbar' only after the Khilafat movement The slogan at t he Battle of Miani in 1843 was not ``Allah-o-Akbar'' but the Baluchi ``Marsaan, Marsaan, Sindh na dhesaan'' (``We will die but we will not surrender Sindh''). Fighting was considered bad. There was a saying: ``Give a threat, make some noise. If even then the other fellow does not run away, then better you run away!'' The typical Sindhi response to tyranny will not be violence but Bhoondo or Bujo, accompanied by the choicest epithets.

Contrary to orthodox Sunni directives, the Shias and the Sunnis in Sindh jointly mourned the martyrdom of Hassan and Hussain and took out Tazias, inspired by the Rath of Puri Jagannath. These Tazias were huge affairs which were not immersed or buried, but moth-balled- and renovated every year. The Hindus offered coconuts and ``patashas'' at the Tazias. Moharram was something of a spectacle to which the Hindus and Muslims looked forward, as we do now to Republic Day tableau.

Typical of this harmoniously philosophical attitude of life was one Ram Dularay at Keamari, the harbour of Karachi. He was so good at setting bones that even Col. Johnson, the civil surgeon of Karachi, took his son to him, when the boy fractured three bones. Ram Dularay charged no fees and attended to the rich and the poor alike in strict order. When Johnson's son recovered in two months, the surprised doctor offered him a 150 rupees job in the hospital. But Ram Dularay preferred to stay on as a harbour chowkidar on 30 rupees a month.

One day Pir Ali Mohammed Rashdi took Rai Bahadur Hotchand of Nawabshah to Ram Dularay for his bone-setting. When Rai Bahadur's turn came, Ram Dularay set his fractured bones, recognized Rashdi, then a rabid Muslim Leaguer. Ram Dularay turned to him and said: ``My son, you will be happy if you remember that life is like a piece of paper in a stream. It can only melt away. If not today, then tomorrow.'' Obviously Rashdi felt touched by it and so he has mentioned it in his memoirs.

Thanks to the storm that shook all India, Sindh had become part of Pakistan. Most of the Hindus left the province. But it is a matter of satisfaction that by and large there were no hard feelings. Many Sindhi refugees brought ``Sindhu-jal'' and/ or some earth, as sacred mementos. Pir Husamuddin Rashdi, noted Sindhi journalist, wrote recently: ``In fact it was the Hindus who had built Sindh. They adorned it. They brought to it wealth from the four corners of the earth. They built great houses. Today we cannot even maintain them.'' He added: ``The real masters of Sindh were the Hindus. They had the education, the jobs, the trade, the land.'' He thinks that the Hindus made the mistake of not acting as helpful elder brother to the Muslims. He could be right; maybe the Hindus should have done more for the Muslims. However, the schools, the colleges the hospitals, and other institutions set up by the Hindus were open to the Muslims. On the other hand, the rich Muslim zamindars never did anything for anybody, Hindu or Muslim.

G.M. Syed has three complaints against the Sindhi Hindus: they always thought in all-lndia terms; they inserted many Sanskrit words in Sindhi; and they called the Sindhi Muslims derisively as ``Jhat'' (corrupt form of Jat).

Syed is at once right --- and wrong. All Sindhis thought in all- India terms, whether the terms were Hindu or Muslim. It is true some second-line Hindu writers did insert some Sanskrit words in Sindhi. But adding two per cent more Sanskrit to a language that was already seventy per cent Sanskrit, was hardly a sin; on the other hand many frant-rank Muslim writers loaded Sindhi with more Persian and Arabic words than our sweet language could bear. As for using the word ``Jhat'' for all Sindhi Muslims --- including Sir Ghulam Hussain! --- it was certainly unfortunate. But it was the casual habit of centuries, which did not mean offense. Funnily enough, it was the Baluchis --- themselves very illiterate --- who first dubbed all Sindhi Muslims, as ``Jhat'', meaning illiterate. And even a Hindu child, poor at studies, would be told: ``Are you a Jhat?''

It will thus be seen that inspite of the wide educational and economic gulf between the Hindu and the Muslim segments of Sindhi society, there was no bitterness in their relations. The Muslims had transformed old gods into new Pirs. Many Hindus visited Muslim durgahs which, in turn, had adopted Hindu-style morning and evening drum-beats. The common Muslims were known as Kando (thorn) Kauro (bitter one) Mitho (sweet one), Bacho (saved), Waryo (returned), Soomar (monday), Ambo (mango) --- and not by those Arab names. The Muslims continued with the same good old talismans as are to be found in Mooanjo-daro.

Births were celebrated. Like the Hindu ``mundan'' (shaving of head) they had ``Akiko''. At about age eight, when the Hindu normally had his ``Janeo,'' (sacred thread ceremony), the Muslim boy was circumcised and given a saffron-coloured lungi to wear. Wedding songs were similar --- and in chaste Sindhi. The Hindu bridegroom proved his manhood by breaking a coconut; the Muslim bridegroom did so by breaking an earthen pot. Like the Hindu couple, the Muslim couple also touched foreheads. In both communities the couple exchanged fistfuls of sesame seeds back and forth seven times, for amity and an abundant brood. The Muslims believed that marriages solemnised before dawn --- ``bhej-bhini'' --- as per ancient custom, were more successful. The ceremonial wedding articles were known to both the Hindus and the Muslims as ``Deva''. They had the same post-wedding feast of the two families in ``Satavaro''. As Tarikh-e-Tahiri moaned long ago: ``Each month has several Ids for them.'' Even the first Monday and the first Friday of each month were turned into festivals, complete with fairs and feasts.

Normally the Sindhi Muslims did not eat beef; nor the Sindhi Hindus, pork. When the Rashdi brothers of Sukkur were short of money which was very often --- they got their meals from the langar (community kitchen) of Sadhbela, the leading Hindu temple in Sindh. The menu, they write, consisted of ``Daal, Poori, Halwa, Khichri, Aachar, Papad, Basar (onion) and Kanah Prasad.''

Important as these external unities were, even more important was the unity of their philosophy The Hindu and the dominant Muslim views of life were the same. The Hindu saw God in everything, everywhere. And so did the great Sufi poet-saints of Sindh. They were all ``Wujudis'' who saw no difference between the Creator and His creation and not ``Shahudis'', who distinguished between God and his creation --- and between `god and god' and `man and man'.

In the words of Annemarie Schimmel: ``In Sindh, the borders between Hinduism and Islam were not hermetically closed. A classical example of this close connection is `Sur Ramkali' in Shah Abdul Latif's `Risalo', a poem in which this mystic praises the wandering yogis in terms taken from Quran and Hadith. Sachal Sarmast and his followers have not hesitated to sing the essential Unity of Being that manifests itself now in Abu Hanifa, now in Hanuman, now in the Vedas, now in the Quran.''

The Islamic ``la ilah ilallah'', (which literally means there is no God but Allah) was re-interpreted by poet Shah Abdul Karim thus: ``One who takes the seller, the buyer and the wares to be one and the same, will know its meaning.'' ``This world,'' said Shah Latif, ``is a mansion with a million doors and windows; whichever way you look, you will see God.''

No wonder the Hindu-Muslim relations were not half as bad in Sindh as in many other provinces. To this day, the Sindhi Hindus remember Sindh with misty eyes -and the Sindhi Muslims remember the Sindhi Hindus in lndia with fond affection. Says Pir Husamuddin of Sukkur with anguish: ``That Sukkur is gone. Those Sakhroos are gone too. Our compatriots are gone. Their place has been taken by strangers.'' Says Sheikh Ayaz of Sindh:

Poesy is a river
On whose banks today
I have seen
Saraswati and Mahakali;
The two together
Were drinking moonlight;
They have come together
After long ages,
No doubt today will be born
A great Maha Kavi.

The great poet has no doubt been born. It is the youth of Sindh. And its poetry is ``Jye Sindh!'' ``Jai Sindhu Desh!'' http://funaziz.blogspot.com/





Culture of Punjab

 PUNJAB
LAHORE

Legend has that it was founded by two sons of Lord Rama about 4000 years ago. Historically it has been proved that Lahore is about 2000 years old. Hieun-tsang, the famous Chinese pilgrim, has given a vivid description of Lahore city which he visited in the early parts of the seventh century A.D.

For 200 years, beginning from about 1525 A.D., Lahore was a thriving cultural center of the great Mughal Empire. Mughal Emperors beautified Lahore with palaces, gardens and mosques. During the British regime many monuments sprang up in Lahore which blended beautifully with the Mughal, Gothic and Victorian styles of architecture.

Lahore is the second largest city in Pakistan and provincial capital of Punjab. Apart from being the cultural and academic center of the country, Lahore is the Mughal "show-window" of Pakistan. The origins of Lahore are shrouded in the mists of antiquity. Reminiscence of its hoary past are the remains of a subterranean temple in the northern part of the Royal fort, attributed to Lord Rama, the legendry hero of Ramayana. Lying on the main trade and invasion routes to the sub-continent, Lahore has been ruled and plundered by a number of dynasties and heroes. However it touched the zenith of its glory during the rule of Mughals. The Mughals, who were famous as builders, gave Lahore some of its finest architectural monuments that are extinct today.

APPROACH:

Lahore is linked with the rest of the country by air, rail and road. It lies on the Grand Trunk Road or the Shahrah-e-Aazam, which connected Kabul with Calcutta. The road was originally built by the Afghan ruler Sher Shah Suri in the 16th century. The Mughals also used this road as means of communications. One can cross over to India at Wahga, which is about 24kms east of Lahore.

PLACES OF INTEREST:

The most important historical monuments of the Mughals in Lahore are the Royal Fort, the Badshahi mosque, the Tombs of Emperor Jehangir, Empress noor Jehan, Anarkali and Asif-Jah and the famous Shalimar garden.

ROYAL FORT LAHORE:

Although most parts of the Royal Fort were constructed around 1566 A.D. by the Mughal Emperor, Akbar the great, there is evidence that a mud fort was in existence here in 1021 A.D. as well, when mahmood of Ghazna invaded this area. Akbar demolished the old mud fort and constructed most of the modern Fort, as we see it today, on the old foundations. Construction of the fort dates back to the early Hindu period.

The Royal Fort is rectangular. The main gates are located alongside the center of the western and eastern walls. Every succeeding Mughal Emperor as well as the Sikhs, and the British in their tom, added a pavilion, palace or all to the Fort. Emperor Jehangir extended the gardens and constructed the palaces that we see today in the Jehangir's Quadrangle, while Shah-Jehan added Diwan-e-Khas, Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque) and his own sleeping Chambers.Aurangzeb built the impressive main gate which faces the Hazoori Bagh lying in between the Badshahi Mosque and the Fort. The famous Sheesh Mahal or palace of mirrors, is in the north-east corner of the Fort. This is the most beautiful palace in the Fort and is decorated with small mirrors of different colors set.

The part of the wall of the Elephant Steps towards the Fort's inner gate are scarred by bullet marks, bearing testimony to the Sikh Civil War of 1847 A.D.

A party of Sikhs had mounted their guns on one of the minarets of the mosque across the courtyard from where they fired on their opponents. The Sleeping Chamber of Mai Jindan houses a very interesting museum with relics from Mughal and the Sikh periods.

Shalimar Gardens:

Three miles east of Lahore are the famous Shalimar Gardens laid out by the Mughal EperorShah-Jehan in 1642 A.D. The Gardens are spread out in typical Mughal style and are surrounded by high walls with watch-towers at the four corners. Originally, the gardens were spread over seven ascending terraces, but only three remain now which cover an area of about 42 acres. The brick-work of the floors of the three terraces have been repaired according to their original designs which differ on all three terraces. There is a marble pavilion under which water flows and cascades down over a carved, marble slab creating a water-fall effect. Across the water-fall is a marble throne. At the end of the second terrace is a beautiful structure called Sawan Bhadon, a sunken tank niches on its three sides. Water cascades down from it in sheets in front of the niches, producing the sound of falling rain. In the olden times, small oil lamps were placed in the niches which reflected myriad colors, through the water. Similar gardens have the proud privilege of being the stage of all important state receptions.

Minar-e-Pakistan:

Minar-ePakistan is a new landmark in Lahore and stands in the Iqbal Park to commemorate the date when a resolution was passed there back in 1940 demanding the creation of a separate homeland for the Muslims of this sub-continent. The Minar is a blend of Mughal and modern architecture and has been very boldly designed. The Minar is about 60 meters tall.

Kim's Gun or Zamzama:

Immortalized by Rudyard Kipping in his accounts is this famous gun now popularly known as the Kim's Gum. It is placed just outside the museum on the Sharah-e-Quaid-e-Azam in front of the campus.

Wazir Khan's Mosque:

In the old part of the town and off the Kashmiri Bazaar, reputedly the most beautiful Mosque in the sub-continent is situated. The Mosque was built in 1683 A.D. by Hakim Ilmuddin who was Minister to Shah-Jehan and was generally known as Wazir Khan. It is a marvelous specimen of tile work and arabesque paintings.

Badshahi Mosque:

The emperor or the Badshahi Mosque is across the courtyard from Alamgiri Gate of the Lahore Fort. The Mosque which is made up entirely of sand-stone was built by Emperor Aurangzeb, the last of the great Mughals, in a record time of the two and-a-half years. Its construction was completed by 1674 A.D. It has a beautiful gate-way which measures 21.33 meters in length and a courtyard that measures 161.5 x 160.6 meters and is said to be the largest mosque courtyard in the world for outdoor prayers.
The marble domes cover seven prayer chambers. For lofty minarets stand at the four corners of the mosque, each with an outer circumference of 20 meters, soaring up to 54 meters. In the chambers above the gate of the mosque, are housed relics attributed to the Holy Prophet of Islam peace be upon him, His Daughter and His Son-in-Law and are said to have been brought to the sub-continent by Amir Taimur. Within the Mosque almost all the colors have been used for painting the floral designs but the overall effect remains one of sobriety, piousness and simplicity.

The Golden Mosqeu:

Golden Mosque is also situated in the Kashmiri Bazaar. It was built in 1753 A.D.by Nawab Syed Bhikari Khan, who was Deputy Governor of Lahore.It is a remarkably beautiful mosque with three golden domes.

Samadhi of Maharaja Ranjeet Singh:

The ashes of the great Sikh ruler of Punjab, Maharaja Ranjeet Singh, and of his four wives and several slave girls lie in a dome adjacent to the Hazoori Bagh.
Other moments include the Dai Anga Mosque, Mariam Zamani Mosque and various shrines of Muslim Sufi Scholars and saints and the tomb of Allama Muhammad Iqbal near Badshahi Mosque.

Shrine of Data Sahib:

Close to the junction of the Lower Mall and the Circular Road is the shrine of Data Sahib was a great sufi saint whose well known work, "Kashf-ul-Mahjub" has been translated from the original Persian into several European languages and is considered a classic. Attached to the Shrine is a beautiful mosque.

Allama Iqbal's Tob:

Outside the Badshahi mosque, near its steps, lies the tomb of Allama Iqbal, the poet-philosopher of the East. The mausoleum is a mixture of Afghan and Moorish style of architecture and is constructed entirely of red sandstone which was quarried and brought from Rajasthan.

Mausoleum of Emperor Jehangir:

The tomb of the fourth great Mughal Emperor, Jehangir, lies three miles north-west of Lahore across the river Ravi. It has a majestic structure made of red sand-stone and marble. The outer entrance to the tomb opens out into a court-yard which was used as a caravan serai during Mughal times. An etrance to the right leads into a Mughal garden with exact geometrical patterns balancing each side. The marble tomb is approached from four corridors leading from the garden. three of these corridors are closed by intricate marble screens. The marble grave is elaborately inlaid with floral designs and the 99 Attributes of God are inscribed on its two sides. On the top is a verse from the Holy Quran. The tomb was built by Queen Noor Jehan and the Emperor's son Shah-Jehan, around 1637 A.D.

Qutbuddin Aibak's Tomb:

He was appointed Governor of India in 1191 A.D. by Muhammad Ghauri. He established the slave Dynasty on the death of Muhammad Ghauri in 1206 when he assumed independence of his reign and was followed by nine other slave kings. He was a patron of the building art and is known to have erected some monumental stone building in Delhi and elsewhere. A very avid player of polo, he died in Lahore in 1210 A.D. While playing the game. His tomb can be visited in Anarkali Bazaar.

Asif Khan's Mausoleum:

In the courtyard near Jehangir tomb lies buried his brother-in-law, Asif Khan, father of Shah Jehan's beloved Queen Arjumand Bano. He lies in a tomb which today shows little of its former splendor.

Nur Jehan's Tomb:

The Empress Nur Jehan, "Light of the world" was the only Empress whose name appeared on the coins of the Mughal empire. She was buried in 1645 A.D. at Shahdara (Lahore) outside Jehangir's mausoleum across the railway line.

Her tomb once had a marble cenotaph which she had built herself during her life time. After the decline of Mughal rule, the tomb suffered extensive damages along with her husband's tomb at the hands of Sikh marauders when they gained power during the early part of nineteenth century. Both were stripped of most of its original beauty and splendor. All treasure and tiles, it is said, were carted off to decorate the Golden Temple at Amrita India.

Anarkali's Tomb:

The tomb of Nadira Begum alias Anarkali, is situated in a corner of the Civil Secretariat of Punjab Governent at Lahore.

The tomb is circular in shape and rooted with a vast and lofty dome supported from inside by eight massive arches 12 feet 3 inches thick. It is a masterpiece of solid masonry work early Mughal period and is neatly and beautifully fitted up.

Lahore Museum:

Opposite the old University Hall, a Mughal style building on the Shahrah-e-Quaid-e-Azam, houses the Lahore museum. The museum contains some fine specimens of Mughal and Sikh door-way and wood-work and has a big collection of paintings dating back to Indo-Pakistan, Mughal, Sikh and British times. It has also a collection of musical instruments, ancient jewellery, textile, poetry and armory. There are relics from the Graeco-Pactrian times as well as some Tibetan and Nepalese exhibits.

Faqirkhana Museum:

A very large and interesting private Museum known as Faqirkhana lies inside the Bhati Gate and is worth visiting. The museum houses a variety of old paintings, including some by great masters, original manuscripts in different languages and artifacts from South East Asia and the Indo-Pak sub-continent.

Anarkali Bazaar:

Anarkali bazaar is the most fascinating of the city's many bazaars. The alleys and lanes of this bazaar are full of exciting wares, especially traditional crafts like leather ware, embroidered garments glass bangles, beaten gold and silver jewellery, creations in silk. Any thing that you wish for a bargain.

Hiran Minar:

Hiran Minar is set in peaceful evirons near Lahore. It was constructed by Emperor Jehangir as a monument to Hansraj, one of his pet antelopes. It is a popular picnic resort with a lake and boating facilities.

Chhanga Mana:

Chhanga Manga is a man-made forest 68 kms from Lahore. There is a lake, and a miniature railway which winds its way through its forest. Chhanga Manga has 12,510 acres of plantations. It is a popular picnic spot spread over 50 acres with a lake and row boats, motor boats, children's park, swimming pool, cafeteria, canteen and rest houses.

Harrappa:

The archaeological site of Harappa is 204 kms south of Lahore. The town flourished at the time when the Indus valley Civilization was at its zenith, about 4,500 years ago.

Jallo Park:

The Park is 28 kms from Lahore. It can be visited by road and by rail. A rail-car leaves for Jallo Railway Station every half hour. Spread over an area of 450 acres, it has expanses of lawns, a forest research center, a children's park, zoo, a small museum and a gift ship.

There are four famous parks in Lahore namely

Bagh-e-Jinnah
Race Course Park, Gulberg Road

Gulshan-e-Iqbal Park, Allama Iqbal Town

Model Town Park, Model Town

Nawaz Sharif Park, Ferozepur Road

These parks have amusement avenues such as play lands for children, mini zoos, aviaries and miniature lakes as well as peddle and steamboats.
Wahga Border:

This check post is about 30 kms from Lahore and is the cross-over point for travelers into India by the land route. It is open daily to foreigners only (except Indian and Pakistani nationals) from 9:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. PST.

MULTAN

The above couple let by a Persian poet describes the primordial environment of the historic city of Multan. But that has changed now and not only the city of Multan but the district itself has been transformed into a green, fertile area. It is fact becoming an industrial town. The city has its own charm, culture and crafts. The origin of the name ‘Multan’ is obscure and so is the period of its founding. It has been Mulosan pulu by Hiuen Tsang and Alberuni called it Multana, which ultimately came to be called Multan.

History

The history of Multan prior to the arrival of Arabs in the 8th century A.D is obscure. Alexander is said to have passed through the district in about 325-326 B.C, but his route cannot be traced. It is probable that Multan was the city of Malli which Alexander stormed and where he was wounded.

        About 327 B.C. the Macedonians were ousted by Chandragupta and the Maurya dynasty remained in power till the beginning of the second century A.D. From 30 B.C to 470 A.D., the Kushan dynasty ruled over the area, and from 470 A.D to 550 A.D., the White Huns are believed to have held sway.

        Multan figured as the capital of an important province of the kingdom of Sindh in the writings of the early Arab geographers. At the time the Arabs first came to Sindh, the country was ruled by Raja Chach, a Brahmin. Multan was conquered by Arabs under Muhammad Bin Qasim in 712 A.D . After  defeating Raja Dahir, a descendant of Chach.

        Thereafter, the town remained for the three centuries the out post of Islam in India, under the caliph of Baghdad. It remained nominally subject to the Lodhies, Ghaznavids and Muhammad Ghauri upto the end of 12th century. From the beginning of the 13th century for the next three centuries , the history of Multan is practically the history of   the incursions from western and central Asia.

         In 1397 came the invasion by Taimur, whose troops occupied Uch and Multan, sacked Tulamba, raided the Kohkhars of Ravi and past across Biass to Pakpattan and Delhi. In 1528, comes the peace full transfer of the province of Multan to the emissaries of the Mughal Emperor Babar. Under the Mughal Emperors, Multan enjoyed a long period of peace between 1528-1748 and was known as Dar-ul-Aman.

        In 1752 Multan became a province owing allegiance to Afghan kings. It was then ruled by Pathan governors and Daud Putra chiefs of Bahawlpur for some time. After 1771, Multan witnessed continued warfare between Sikhs and the Nawabs of Multan. Between 1818 and 1845, it remained under the Sikh rule and finally came under the British rule in 1849.

The City

Multan city has the distinction of being the birthplace of three distinguished man in history Muhammad Tughlaq is said to have been born in 13th century in a hamlet and the place, which is known as “ Kotla Toleh Khan “. Emperor Bahlole Lodhi was born in Qazian Wala Makan near Hussain Agahi. Ahmed Shah Abdali, the first Durrani sovereign of Afghanistan , was also born at Multan in 1722.

        The city of Multan is bound on the north by the depression lying between it and the front and on all other sides by a brick wall. It has six gates i.e. Lohari gate, Pak gate, Bohar gate, Delhi gate, Haram gate and Daulat gate.

        The old city has narrow colorful bazaars full of local handicrafts and narrow winding lanes. There are many places of historical, cultural and recreational interest in the city.

The Fort

Multan Fort was built on a mound separating it room the city by old bed of river Ravi. Its date cannot be fixed with accuracy. When intact, its circumference was 6,600 ft. having 46 bastions, including two towers at each of the four gates i.e., Delhi gate, Khizri gate, Sikhi gate and Rehri gate. The fort was ravaged by the British to avenge the murder of one Mr. Agnew in 1948. At present it is survived by some parts of the old rampart and bastions besides the shrines of Hazrat Bahauddin Zakaria and Shah Rukne-e-Alam, an obelisk in memory of Agnew and a Hindu temple. The famous Qasim Bagh and a stadium are located within the walls of the fort. A panoramic view of Multan city can be had from the highest point in  the fort.

Shrines

The devastation of Khorasan and Western Iran was to the benefit of this part of Pakistan, for it led to the setting in this city of a large Gardezi Syeds and Qureshis from Khwarizm, amongst whom Shiekh Bahauddin Zakaria is a famous saint. About the same time Pir Shams Sabzawari from Sabzwar and Kazi Qutubuddin from Kashan came to Multan. Baba Farid Shakar Ganj was born in a village of Multan , and settled in Pakpattan.

Khwaja Qutubuddin Bakhtiar Kaki passed through Multan to Delhi and Syed Jalal, the spiritual leader of many families in Multan, Muzaffargarh and Bahawalpur came to Uch.

Sultan Sikhi Sarwar’s father also emigrated form Bukhara to Sarwar Shah Kot in Multan district. These venerable men contributed greatly to spreading Islam in this area. The saints and shrines of Multan have been attracting a large number of devotees all year round.

        One of the foremost scholars of Islam, Sheikh Baha-ud-din Zakaria’s shrine is located in the fort. He was  born in 1170 A.D., studied in Turan and Iran and received instructions from Sheikh Shahab-ud-din Suharwardi at Baghdad. His mausoleum was built by the saint himself. It was a unique style of architecture of that period, a only other being at Sonepat in India. It also houses the graves of  most of the eminent members of the Qureshi family, including that of Nawab Muzaffar Khan.

        The mausoleum of Shah Rukn-e –Alam, the grand son of Sheikh Bahauddin Zakaria, this also located near the main gate of the Multan fort. He was also a man of great religious and political influence during the Tughlaq region and was in Multan when it was visited by Ibn-e-Batuta. The Mausoleum was originally built by emperor Ghias-ud-din Tughlaq but was given up by his son Muhammad Tughlaq in favor of Shah Rukn-e-Alam . Besides its religious importance, the mausoleum has a unique architectural value. Its dome is considered to be the second largest in the world. The mausoleum has recently being given the Agha Khan award for the best Muslim architecture. Some of the interesting statistics of its architecture are:

(a)            Total height of the road level is 150ft

(b)            Total height of building is 100ft

(c)             Octagonal upper structure diameter is 26ft

(d)            Octagonal lower structure diameter is 52ft

(e)            The dome on top has a diameter of 58ft

The mausoleum has very rich geometric pattern, calligraphy and colorful floral, mosaic and glaze tile work. The shrine is visited by devotees all year around.

The shrine of Hazrat Shams Sabzwari is located near Aam-khas garden. A descended of Imam Jaffar, he was born in 1165 A.D., the saint died in 1276 A.D., and is shrine was built by his grand son in 1330 A.D.

Other Shrines

Other shrines in Multan include those of Mohammad Yousaf Gardezi near Bohar Gate, Musa Pak Shaheed inside the Pak Gate, Totla Mai Haram Gate, Shah Ali Akbar, a descendant of Shah Shams Sabzwari, in Suraj Miani and Baba Safra near Eidgah.

Mosques of Multan

The famous mosques of Multan are Wali Mohammad Mosque in Chowk Bazar built by Ali Mohammad Khakwani in 1758 A.D., Mosque Phulhatt in Chowk Bazar built by Emperor Farrukh Siyar, Baqarabadi Mosque built by Baqar Khan in 1720 A.D. and the beautiful Eidgah Mosque built by Nawab Abdul Samad Khan in 1735 A.D.

Other Places

Multan has some beautiful modern buildings such as Nishtar Medical College, University Campus, Arts Council building with and auditorium, Multan Railway Station building the famous Clock Tower building of the Multan Municipal Corporation and State Bank of Pakistan etc.

        There are places of recreation in Multan such as the Stadium, the Lake Chaman zar-e-Askari and Company Bagh in the Multan Fort, Lange Khan Garden, Aam-Khas Garden and the parks at Bohar Gate, Chowk Shaheedan, Tabbi Sher Khan and the Nawan Shaher in and around Multan.

Festivals, Fairs and Meals

Religious festivals in Multan are a peculiar mixture of devotion and recreation. Multan is famous for its shrines. Annual Urs is held on every shrine. Well known are the Urs of Shah Rukn-e-Alam, Bahauddin Zakaria, Shah Shams Sabzwari, Shah Jamal, Sher Shah and Mela Ludden Pir, etc.

RAWALPINDI / ISLAMABAD

HISTORY :

The twin cities of Rawalpindi and Islamabad lie against the backdrop of Margalla Hills on the Potohar plateau. On the basis of archaeological discoveries, archaeologists believe that a distinct culture flourished on this plateau as far back as 3,000 years.

The material remains found on the site of the city of Rawalpindi prove the existance of a Buddhist establishment contemporary to Taxila but less celebrated than its neighbour. It appears that the ancient city went into oblivion as a result of the Hun devastation. The first Muslim invader, Mahmood of Ghazni (979 - 1030 AD), gifted the ruined city to a Gakkhar Chief, Kai Gohar. The town, however, being on invaders' route, could not prosper and remained deserted until Jhanda Khan, another Gakkhar Chief, restored and gave the name of Rawalpindi after the village Rawal in 1493 AD. Rawalpindi remained under the rule of Gakkhars till Muqarrab Khan, the last Gakkhar ruler, was defeeated by Sikhs in 1765 AD. Sikhs invited traders from other places to settle here. This brought the city into prominence. Sikhs lost the city to British in 1849 AD. It then become the General Headquarters of British Army and they established a cantonment south of the old city. In 1879, the Punjab Northern Railway was extended to Rawalpindi but the train service was formally inaugurated on January 01, 1886.

Over the years, Rawalpindi has retained its traditional flavor. However, some modern residential areas and buildings have come up all over the town since the creation of Pakistan. Pakistan's new capital, Islamabad being the twin city of Rawalpindi, equally shares the same archaeological and historical background.

RAWALPINDI :
Old City and Bazaars
The bazaars of the old city offer exciting bargains. You can leisurely browse in the quaint old shops in Saddar bazaar, Moti bazaar, Raja bazaar and Kashmiri bazaar while Sarafa bazaar is famous for beaten gold and silver jewellery, brass and copper-ware.

Rawalpindi specializes in handicrafts such as inlaid sheesham and walnut furniture, Kashmiri shawls and jackets, embroidered and woolen 'Kurtas' and household linen, Potohar Jooties and Chappals (slippers), cane baskets and furniture, walking sticks and hand-woven Kashmiri and Bokhara carpets. You can go shopping for these items at handicraft and carpet shops in Saddar bazeer, especially around Flashman's Hotel and Rawalpindi Club building on the Mall.

Liaquat Memorial Hall and Garden
This hall was built in memory of late Mr. Liaquat Ali Khan the first Prime Minister of Pakkistan. It has a large auditorium and library. Art exhibitions, cultural shows and stage plays are performed here frequently. A well-laid garden with sports facilities and children's park has been developed near the hall.

Ayub National park
Ayub National park is located beyond the old presidency on Jehlum Road. It covers an area of about 2,300 acres and has a playland, lake with boating facility, an aquarium and a garden-restaurant.

Rawalpindi Golf Course
Situated near Ayub National Park, Rawalpindi Golf Course was completed in 1926 by Rawalpindi Golf Club, one of the oldest golf clubs of Pakistan, founded on 2nd November 1885. The facility was initially developed as a nine-hole course. After several phases of development, it is now converted into a 27-hole course. The club is being patronized by the successive Presidents of Pakistan.

Rawalpindi Public Park and Cricket Stadium
Rawalpindi Public Park is located on Murree Road near Shamsabad. The Park was opened for public in 1991. It has a play-land for for children, grassy lawns, fountains and flower beds. A cricket stadium was built in 1992 just opposite the Public Park. The 1992 World Cup Cricket matches were held on this cricket ground. The stadium is equipped with all modern facilities.

ISLAMABAD :
Islamabad, the capital of Pakistan, is located against the backdrop of Margalla Hills at the northern edge of Potohar Plateau. In contrast to its twin city Rawalpindi, it is lush green, spacious and peaceful. The master plan of this most modern was presented in 1960 by M/S Constantinos Doxxiades, a Greek firm of Architects. Construction was started in October 1961. The city came into life on 26 October 1966, when the first office building of Islamabad was occupied. It is a modern and carefully planned city.
There are ample opportunities for walking, jogging, hiking and trekking around Islamabad in the Margalla hills.

Rose and Jasmine Garden
This 20,360 sq.meters rose garden is famous for its roses. It has 250 different varieties of roses as well as a dozen types of Jasmines. Flower shows are occasionally held here, particularly during spring. Nearby is the Tourist Camping Site.

Shakarparian Hills
Shakarparian hills are situated near Zero Point, at a height of 6009 meters. Its terraced garden offers pleasant and sweeping vistas of Margalla and Murree hills, Rawal Lake, Rawalpindi and Islamabad. Snack Bar facilities are available.

Rawal Lake
This glistening man-made lake covers an area of 8.8 sq. km. The terraced garden and the lake are ideal for picnic, fishing and boating. The highest point in the garden commands a panoramic view of the lake, Margalla and Murree hills, Rawalpindi and Islamabad. The PTDC Jaltarang restaurant offers snack bar facilities for visitors.

Damen-e-Koh
This low hill over looking Islamabad, known as Damen-eKoh, offers panoramic view of Islamabad. Snack bar facilities are available here. The place is ideal for afternoon and avaning outing with family and friends.

Islamabad Sports Complex

BAHAWALPUR

The founder of the state of Bahawalpur was Nawab Bahawal Khan Abbasi I. The abbasi family ruled over the state more than 200 years (1748 to 1954). During the rule of the last Nawab Sir Sadiq Khan Abbasi V, Bahawalpur State was merged with Pakistan in 1954. Bahawalpur was formerly the capital of the state and now is the District Divisional Headquarters of Bahawalpur division. It is an important marketing center for surrounding areas and is located on the crossroads between Peshawar, Lahore, Quetta and Karachi. Saraiki is the local language of the area. Urdu, Punjabi and English are also spoken and understood by most of the people.

What to see

Central Library: It is housed in a building having fine architectural value. The foundation stone of this building was laid by the then governor and viceroy of India Sir Rufus Danial Issacs on 8 March, 1924 to mark the installation of late Nawab of Bahawalpur Sir Sadiq Mohammad Khan Abbasi V. The central library was established in 1947 in this building. It has a vast collection of books and rare manuscripts. It is one of the best libraries in Pakistan and visited by students and scholars from within the country and abroad.

Bhawalpur Museum

Bahawalpur has a modest museum with a fine collection of coins, medals, postage stamps of former state of Bahawalpur, manuscripts, documents, inscriptions, wood carvings, camel skin paintings, historical models and stone carvings etc. of Islamic and pre-Islamic period. There is a complete set of models of all classes issued by the ex state to its military officers civilians and to other important citizens of the ex state.

Zoological Garden

The zoological garden of Bahawalpur is considered to be one of the best in the country. Spread over an area of 25acres of land, it has an interesting collection of 120 animals and 750 birds of tropical areas, particularly those found in this region. The zoo has the distinction of occasional breeding of lions and supply of beasts to other zoos in the country. It also has a aquarium and zoological museum with stuffed rare birds and animals.

Dring Stadium

Bahawalpur has one of the finest stadiums in the country having fine cricket grounds, two football grounds one basket ball  court and lawn tennis courts and covered swimming pool. There is also a hockey stadium, which is considered to be the second best in the country after Karachi Stadium. It can accommodate 13000 people at a time.

Shrine of Muluk Shah

The shrine of Muluk Shah, a popular saint of his time, is located in the city and visited by devotees on every Thursday ashura and Eid days. A small fair is also held annually.

Jamia Masjid Al Sadiq

It was made by the Nawab Sadiq Mohammad Khan Abbasi V at the elevation of more than 12ft from earth. It can house 50,000 to 60,000 people at a time, during the Eid festivals. It is well-reputed mosque in Pakistan like other prominent mosques of Pakistan.

Uch Sharif

Uch, 75 km from Bahawalpur, is a very old town, it is believed that it existed even in 500 B.C. Some historians believe that Uch was there even before the advent of Bikramajit when Jains and Bhudhists ruled over sub continent. At the time of the invasion by Alexander the Great, Uch was under Hindu rule. Some historians say that Alexander came to Uch after conquering northern parts of India and spent over a fortnight in the city and renamed it Alexandariya. Some have mentioned Uch by the name of Sikandara or Iskalanda. They have decided it as the most flourishing and beautiful town perched upon the Plateau near the confluence of the Chanab and Rave rivers. Famous shrines existing at Uch include those of Hazrat Bahawal Haleem, Hazrat Jalal-ud-din Surkh Bokhari, Makhdoom Jahanian Jahangasht, Bibi Jawindi and Sheikh Saif-ud-din Ghazrooni etc.

         Uch is a small town today and divided into three different quarters known as (i)Uch Bokhari, after Hazrat Syed Jalal-ud-din Bokhari Surkhposh, (ii) Uch Jilani (Bandagi), who came from Halab in 887A.H., and (iii) Uch Mughlan after the Mughal rulers.

        Makhdoom Sahib of Uch Bokhari has some rare Islamic relics in his possession for example, (i) Turban of Holy Prophet (PBUH), (ii) a mantle of the Prophet (PBUH)

(iii) “Samsam” (sword) of Hazrat Imam Hasan, (iv) a cap and turbine of Hazrat Sheikh Abdul Qadir Jilani of Baghdad and (v) mantle of Hazrat Salman Farsi.

        Makhdoom Sahib Uch  Jilani is the custodian of (i) Holy Prophets footprints (ii) a few chapter of the Holy Quran written by Hazrat Imam Hussain and (iii) a tooth of Hazrat Awais Qarni
CHOLISTAN

Cholistan, a well-known desert - 30 kms from Bahawalpur, covers an area of 16,000 sq. kms and extending up to the Terar desert which spreads across into India. Cholistan is derived from the word "Chalna" which means moving but locally the area is known as "Rohi".

SIALKOT

Sialkot is located 130 kms north-east of Lahore, and is linked by road and train with the whole country. It is internationally known for its manufacture of sports goods and surgical instruments.

FAISALABAD

A 140 kms west of Lahore is Faisalabad. It is known as the Manchester of Pakistan because it is famous for its textile industry. The focal point of this cit is Ghanta Ghar Bazaar which connects eight bazaars. Faisalabad is connected with the rest of the country by air, road and rail.

GUJRANWALA

Gujranwala is situated about 65 kms to the north of Lahore. This city has developed a wide range of industries that manufacture such products as fans, washing machines, stainless steel items, room coolers, heaters, etc. Being located on the historic Grand Trunk Road and on the main railway line, it is well connected with the rest of the country.

CHINIOT

Chiniot is situated about 160 kms to the west of Lahore. It is famous for its wood work - items such as furniture's, decoration pieces and wood-made bodies of trucks, buses and wagons. It is linked with the rest of the country by road and by rail.
 
 
 
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